Chloé
Handbags
In Spring 2005, Phoebe Philo designed a bag for Chloé with a heavy padlock at its center and a soft, slouching body of aged-grain leather. Every one of the 8,000 pieces made was spoken for before it reached a single store. Twenty years later, Chemena Kamali showed it again on the Fall 2025 runway — Alexa Chung carrying it down the catwalk, wearing it as if she had never stopped. She hadn't. Nobody really had. The Paddington is the bag that never left. It just spent twenty years in the back of the wardrobe, waiting for the right moment to come back out.
Spring 2005 · Phoebe Philo · The Bag That Sold Before It Existed
The Chloé Paddington bag was designed by Phoebe Philo for the Spring/Summer 2005 collection. WWD described it at the time as Chloé's "big bang." The padlock — heavy, gold, centered on the front — was at once practical and absurd: it locked a bag that needed no locking, announced hardware on a house known for softness, and made itself the first thing anyone saw. The aged-grain leather slouched around the lock as if already worn. Eight thousand pieces were produced. Every one was sold before any of them reached a boutique. The waitlists that formed around it were the first evidence of a phenomenon that fashion had not quite seen in that form before — a bag so immediately desired that ownership became its own conversation, separate from the object itself. Kate Moss carried it. Sienna Miller carried it. Halle Berry, Jennifer Lopez, Mary-Kate Olsen. The Paddington became shorthand for a specific kind of early-2000s taste: boho, heiress-inflected, quietly expensive, worn as if it had always been there. Then the decade shifted, the bag fell out of daily circulation, and the original 8,000 pieces went into wardrobes from which, as it turns out, they were never truly removed.
Fall 2025 · Chemena Kamali · The Return
Chemena Kamali revived the Paddington for the Chloé Fall 2025 runway in March 2025. Alexa Chung walked it. The same Alexa Chung who had carried the original in the 2000s was now on the runway carrying the revival, which is the most precise possible image of what a house icon means when it returns. The new Paddington kept the original silhouette intact: the slouchy elongated body, the aged-grain leather, the oversize padlock front and center. Kamali's adjustments were forensic rather than transformational — lighter hardware, a single zip, adjustable straps, and a faux-fur tail key ring that can be purchased separately. "I wanted to capture the Paddington as it lives today," she said: "spontaneous, not precious, a bag that has become part of women's lives, carrying both intimacy and character." The campaign was shot by David Sims in black and white: Kendall Jenner, Aimee Lou Wood, and Anna from Meovv. The bag launched September 24, 2025, in two sizes — small at $2,290, medium at $2,750. The original had sold for $1,380. The 99% price increase was absorbed instantly. There were no complaints from the waiting list.
The Paddington revival generated some of the most dramatic market response data attached to any bag relaunch in recent memory. In July 2025, Google searches for "Chloé Paddington Bag" reached their highest point since the original 2005 release. On eBay, year-over-year searches increased 628%. On Depop, searches spiked 1,137%. The Handbag Clinic reported that the bag had grown in resale value by over 275% in the prior year alone. The original 2005 pieces — already robust by construction, as original owners discovered when they retrieved them from wardrobes for resale — arrived at secondhand platforms in excellent condition, having been stored rather than abandoned. "When Chloé Paddingtons rolled back into the fashion cycle, our resale service was inundated with the original 2004 models," the Handbag Clinic noted, "which had all stood the test of time." The revival did not cannibalize the vintage market. It expanded it. Both the new Paddington and the original are in demand simultaneously, for different reasons, by different buyers.
The Fall 2026 runway announced the next iteration: a maxi version of the Paddington — a larger format of the same silhouette, the same padlock, the same aged-grain leather, expanded for a generation that wants the bag to carry more and announce itself more clearly. The Paddington in Tulip Red has become the most requested colorway among those following the revival. Katie Holmes carried her Paddington on the set of Happy Hours, her own film, which means the bag will appear on screen as itself rather than as a costume prop — a status confirmation that no campaign photograph could manufacture. Daisy Edgar-Jones was spotted with the deep blue version months before it reached stores. The faux-fur tail key ring has been adopted as a styling signature, an accessory to the accessory — Chloé's way of adding personality to a bag that already has more of it than most.
The Chloé bag vocabulary extends well beyond the Paddington into a family of permanent silhouettes, each carrying the house's bohemian sensibility in a different format. The Marcie hobo — the house's most relaxed shape, soft and unstructured, with a single curved flap and hand-painted edge stitching — is the bag that requires no occasion and suits every one. The Paraty — a dual-carry tote with top handles and a long strap, its silhouette derived from a trompe l'œil perspective of a parallelogram — is the most architecturally precise shape the house makes, and the one that holds its structure over the longest period. The Drew — a small chain bag with a round body and a double chain strap — brought a more evening-ready proposition to the Chloé vocabulary when it launched, and remains one of the most worn pieces in the house's permanent range. Each of these bags was designed for a woman who carries her bag with her rather than displays it — Chloé's consistent position in the market of luxury leather goods.
Alongside the Paddington revival, Chemena Kamali's Chloé has introduced a family of new shapes that extend her bohemian vocabulary into bag design. Cylindrical leather barrel bags with gold side accents — structured in body but romantic in proportion, worn on the shoulder or carried in the crook of the arm. Heart-shaped drawstring pouches on chains — compact, soft, deliberately sentimental, the most personal object in the Kamali-era Chloé range. Gold chains, charms, and trinkets deployed throughout the accessories as embellishments and separates — the faux-fur tail key ring being the most immediately legible of these, worn on the Paddington and on other bags in the collection as a transferable personality marker. The Kamali-era shapes do not compete with the Paddington's authority in the market — they accompany it, extending the bohemian register of the season into formats that are newer and lighter, objects for a different mood within the same wardrobe.
The original Chloé Paddington bags — the 8,000 pieces from Spring 2005 — have proven as durable as their padlocks. Twenty years of storage, retrieval, and recirculation have not diminished them. The aged-grain leather that made them immediately desirable in 2005 has continued to age, which in the case of Chloé's leather goods means improvement rather than deterioration. The vintage market for Phoebe Philo-era Chloé — the Paddington, the early Marcie, the Paraty — has deepened significantly since Kamali's revival brought institutional attention back to the archive. Platforms including Vestiaire Collective, The Real Real, and specialist consignment houses have seen consistent inflows of original Paddington pieces, selling within days of listing. The Paddington's value has grown by over 275% in resale in one year. It is one of the few cases in which a revival has simultaneously increased the value of both the original and the reissue — because what Kamali showed on the Fall 2025 runway was not a replacement. It was a confirmation that the first design was right.
Chemena Kamali joined Chloé as creative director in 2023, having begun her career at the house as an intern during the Phoebe Philo era. She knows the Paddington from the inside — not as archive material to be retrieved but as an object she encountered when it was new and current, when 8,000 of them sold before reaching a store. Her decision to revive it was not an act of nostalgia. It was an act of recognition: the identification of a bag that had never stopped being right, that had simply been waiting for the moment when its original character would be legible again to a new generation. "Sometimes you keep, sometimes you don't keep," she told WWD, "but the wardrobe is like a natural evolution of our lives." The Paddington is the thing she kept. The house she returned to is the place she started. The bag on the runway was the same bag — lighter hardware, fur tail, $2,750 — and entirely itself.
Every one of the 8,000 Paddington bags
made for Spring 2005
was sold before it reached a store.
Twenty years later, Alexa Chung
walked it down the runway at the revival.
She had carried the original.
Depop searches rose 1,137%.
eBay searches rose 628%.
Google searches reached their highest
since the day it was first released.
The bag had never left.
It had simply been waiting
in a wardrobe
for someone to open the door.
The Chloé bag story is the story of what happens when a house produces one object so precisely calibrated to a moment that it becomes the document of that moment — and then discovers, twenty years later, that the document remains entirely current. The Paddington defined 2005 not because it was fashionable but because it was right: the right weight, the right leather, the right lock, the right degree of bohemian nonchalance applied to a luxury object. The 2025 revival confirmed this not by updating it significantly but by leaving it almost entirely intact. The house did not need to reimagine the Paddington. It needed to re-present it. Kamali understood the distinction. The house's broader vocabulary — the Marcie, the Paraty, the Drew, and the new barrel bags and heart pouches — extends this logic across the full bag range: objects designed to be lived with rather than displayed, to accumulate character rather than resist it, to be carried into the world rather than protected from it. This is the Chloé position. It is more demanding to sustain than it appears. Most houses cannot achieve it. Chloé has done it twice with the same bag.
93 Greene Street · 715 Madison Avenue · New York
Chloé presents its handbag collection in New York at two addresses: the SoHo flagship at 93 Greene Street and the uptown boutique at 715 Madison Avenue. The full range is available at both — the Paddington in all current colorways and sizes, the Kamali-era new shapes including the barrel bags and heart pouches, and the permanent silhouettes including the Marcie, Paraty, and Drew. The Paddington in Tulip Red, the most requested colorway of the revival, is available at both addresses. The faux-fur tail key ring is available separately. The maxi Paddington — announced for Fall 2026 — will arrive at both boutiques when it lands. New York has a particular relationship with the Paddington's history: it was the city where the original It-bag phenomenon registered most loudly in 2005, where the waitlists were longest, and where the Depop spike of 1,137% in 2025 suggests the most concentrated appetite for its return.
93 Greene Street · SoHo · New York, NY · Flagship
715 Madison Avenue · Upper East Side · New York, NY
Paddington Small $2,290 · Medium $2,750 · Faux-fur tail key ring
Marcie · Paraty · Drew · Barrel bags · Heart pouches
Chemena Kamali — Creative Director since 2023
Founded Paris 1952 · Richemont Group · chloe.com
Phoebe Philo designed 8,000 bags
with a heavy padlock at the center.
Every one was sold before it existed.
Twenty years later,
Chemena Kamali — who had been an intern
when the first bag was made —
showed it again on a runway
with Alexa Chung carrying it
as if no time had passed.
Depop searches rose 1,137%.
The bag cost 99% more.
Nobody hesitated.
Some things were always right.
They just needed to be shown again.
CHLOÉ
© Chloé
















